Bra Fit & Sizing Guide (Decoding UK Sizing)
It’s quite normal for most women to actually wear a not quite right sized bra. An incorrect sized bra is rarely miles off the perfect size but tends to make a noticeable difference in terms of comfort and general fit. However, it’s not entirely the customer’s fault. Sizing changes from brand to brand, body shapes and sizes alter and most women have had their bra size measured only once. This guide will attempt to illuminate the intricacies of UK bra sizes, the proper way to take your bra size and just how to check if your current bra is the correct size.
UK Bra Sizing System
A bra size is a combination of two components namely the band size and the cup size. The band size refers to the measurement of your rib cage just beneath your bust, while the cup size is determined by the measurement of your bust at its fullest minus the band measurement.
In the UK, A through D are the “normal sizes”, which are followed by DD, E, F, FF, G, GG, H, HH, J, JJ, K, which are considered “large sizes”. Each of the bra cup letters denotes an approximately 1 inch difference between Bust measurement and the Band measurement. For example, a B cup size represents a 2 inch difference, an A is 1 inch difference.
Make sure you understand that breast cup size is almost arbitrary, not standard. For example, a 32DD is actually a smaller breast size (in overall volume) than a 40DD, despite both being labeled as a “DD.” This is extremely confusing to many people and is usually what causes confusion when bands grow but the cup size doesn’t seem to keep “up” with the size of the band.
Measuring yourself at home
You’ll need a flexible measuring tape. It is helpful to have someone assist you, but it can also be done by yourself, with the help of a mirror.
The band size is the measurement of your rib cage, just under your breasts. The tape should be even and level all the way around, and not so tight that it compresses your ribs. The breast measurement also needs to be taken with the tape measure level and, this time, taken around the fullest part of your breast and (ideally) with a bra that has no or almost no padding.
A measurement subtraction (subtract the band from the breast measurement) results in a difference that will give you a cup size. For example,. an A cup is a 1″ difference. B is 2″ and so on, up the alphabet to K and beyond.
This method will give you a good preliminary estimate, but don’t expect it to be perfect. The real test comes when the bra is actually worn.
Your bra should fit properly to provide adequate support. There are a couple of checks you can do to figure out if your bra isn’t fitting properly while you wear it. First, you should try moving normally for a little while, and, you should also try the checks while sitting, standing, and even while breathing normally.
Your bra’s band should be straight and level all the way around. The band shouldn’t be riding up and should also be level and not higher in the back than the front. The center gore should be flat to your sternum, and if it isn’t, your bras cups are too small. If your straps are digging into your shoulders and leaving marks, your bra band is too big. The bra’s underwire should be resting on your rib cage and should not be resting on your breast tissue either.
If your bra fits in all of those areas, a re-fit is due, especially if your size is a “familiar” size.
If your bra fits in the style of a size that you calculated, a sister fit is also something you can try. Sister fits also change the volume of the cup and band sizes, and of the two sizes, the one that is tighter should be altered.
For instance, someone who wears a 38D but has an issue with the band being too loose should try a 36DD. It works similarly because the volume in the cup with a 36DD is about the same, but the band is definitely tighter. This adjustment is useful in case the sizing of the brand is off, which is a more common instance than people think.
Why Sizing Varies Between Brands
The brand-to-brand sizing will be the most frustrating part for most people. A 36D in one brand does not mean that you will be a 36D in all other brands. Some will have a more or less fuller cup, while others will be completely cut for a different shape.
This lack of standardization is especially true in fuller sizes (those above G cup and above band 38) which will typically have more variance than smaller sizes.
For all intents and purposes, use your sizing as a starting point. In most cases try one up or down from your go-to sizing.
When To Get Measured In Person
Taking your measurements at home is a good starting point, but nothing will replace a fitting that’s done by a professional and that’s in an actual store with a wide range of sizes. A home measurement won’t capture things like how a cup shape or wire width suits your body, or how the band will sit.
You should do this more often if your weight has changed, you’re buying for a specific event, and especially if you don’t know your bra size because you’ve never had a fitting. Many shops that carry larger size ranges have fittings as standard and typically won’t charge you.
The takeaway
You should check your sizing with a bra fitter regularly. This is especially true when your body changes and also when you try a new brand. The UK bra size system has its uses to get you in the ballpark, but at the end of the day, comfort and fit matter more. Once you find the right size (or two, depending on the brand), you’ll notice the improvement in comfort and fit of your clothes.